E:TIP
1:induction hose: after maintenance has been
completed, use you left hand to feel up behind the air induction entry
on the right hand side cowling (just rear of the pilot’s door) and
check to see that the flexible air induction hose has been firmly
attached. We know of a couple that have come off because the hose
clamps were not tightened and then caused a consequence loss of power when
the hose sucked onto something else in flight.
E:TIP
2: carb heat: If at any time in flight you feel that
“something is not right” with the engine – your first action, provided
that it is safe to do so (height, power requirements etc), would be to
pull the carb heat full on. This ensures that any potential carb ice
problems are eliminated, PLUS gives you an alternative filtered carb
air source should the problem be with the main air induction hose.
E:TIP
3: power loss when hot: If at any time in flight you
have an unexplained loss of power that is of a magnitude that, though
the engine keeps running, an emergency landing has to be made, it may
be a problem with an inlet valve and your hydraulic tappets.
This can
usually be confirmed by the fact that the engine can be started and
run again with no apparent problems after it has cooled down, whereas
a sticking exhaust valve usually gives problems on the next cold
start.
What may have happened is that the engine has, some time
in the past, been started with the throttle wide open and the resulting
quick start may have been reported, but not the magnitude of the engine overspeed.
During this quick start, an
inlet valve may become stretched (Tuliped) and therefore slightly longer.
If the
hydraulic tappet valve clearances have been set at the minimum value
or the valve seat in the cylinder has worn, the stretched valve expands
lengthwise (taking up all the available gap clearances)
when the engine
is running hotter at a high power setting and
then
does not quite seal on
the cylinder head seat.
This then allows the cylinder to run very
inefficiently and in a worse case, the combustion flame caused by the spark plug
– through the slightly open inlet valve - starts combustion of inlet
gases destined for other cylinders.
One of cases known to us had the
pilot report a loud “banging” noise immediately preceding what he
described as ”someone putting a brake on the engine”. Again as in
previous cases, the engine did not stop running – it simply had no
power.
The solution is to replace the
tuliped inlet
valve and ALL the hydraulic
tappets. It seems that the tappets “look OK” when the mechanic checks
them for damage and leak down, however the hammering during the engine overspeed must
do something to also
weaken
their springs and they tend to fail, not doing the job of keeping a
zero backlash in the valve train system. You can pick this by noisy (ticky)
tappets when the engine is hot and sometimes a lack of “grunt” from
the engine (the extra valve clearance means that the valve timing is
out a little) and therefore changing the timing of the amount of
fuel/air mixture that can enter the cylinder.